BALI FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE HOLIDAY

My wife Tannie and I have never had a better holiday than the ten days we recently spent in Bali. We had earlier greatly enjoyed the splendors of Egypt, the wonders of Turkey, the temptations of Europe and the joys of ocean cruises but Bali is a place that we want to go back to see again. Thailand offers a much greater variety of places to visit, things to do but you know that you are in a foreign land. Although Bali is exotically foreign it also offers a feeling of human warmth. And, for Indians, a deep river of an ancient common culture is also seductively alluring.

Do not however expect a tropical paradise for there are better beaches, more fun and greater variety of food in many other countries. The Indonesian Rupiah is also initially very scary. There are so many Zeros in the 50,000 Rupiahs you one need to spend on a taxi ride until you realizes that it is just 4 US dollars. After understanding this, the costs of hotels, food, shopping and excursions suddenly become very affordable. Many also fear that Bali will be hot in summer forgetting that it is near the equator that makes the climate pleasant throughout the year. There is a great deal to see and do in the island that is about 150 kms from east to west and 100 kms from north to south. All the beaches are beautiful and the lush green fields and thick forests covering the hilly terrain are a delight.

Bali is predominantly Hindu and there are numerous beautiful red and gold Hindu temples every few kilometers. Lovely examples of Hindu piety are also visible in every house of hotel where colorful rituals are performed every day. We were lucky to witness a most beautiful purification ceremony at our hotel. Hinduism came to Indonesia about 1500 years ago when the great Hindu kingdoms of the Srivijayan and Shailendra kings were established in Sumatra mainly influenced by the cultures of ancient Orissa and Tamilnadu. Brahmin priests with magnificent rites of kingship were eagerly sought by every local chieftain. Though Buddhism followed it many great Hindu temples still survive. Islam was then brought to Indonesia by Arab traders about 600 years ago but the island of Bali remained staunchly Hindu. It was however an archaic Hinduism of about a thousand years earlier and gradually became a bit different from the Hinduism that evolved in different parts of India.

 

The world’s only temple of Varuna, the `purvi devta’ or pre Vedic divinity of water, is just off the coast at Tanah Lot in the south west. This beautiful temple built on a rocky spur lapped by the surging waves of the ocean is truly spectacular. At Ubud in the centre of the island is a 9^th century Goa Gajah temple devoted to Ganesh carved inside a cave. Outside this temple there are sacred tanks fed by a spring. In the ancient Puranic Indian tradition all the water of the world came from Ganga the sacred cosmic river that came to earth through the matted locks of the god Shiva and then splashed out to create all the springs of the world that were channeled through the mouths of cows (gaomukh) or water vessels held by celestial nymphs. At Goa Gajah the waters of the spring pour out of little vessels carried lovingly by six celestial maids.

As in India the Balinese Hindus cremate their dead but only the Brahmins are burned immediately. Most Balinese are from the lesser castes and their bodies are buried for eleven months until their souls are pure and their bones are then cremated in a grand but very expensive ceremony. There are many other customs similar but not the same as those of Indian Hindus.

We went to Bali on a well organized and affordable six day package tour. We first stayed at an excellent 4-star hotel at Legian on the west coast that is full of bars, spas and discos. The package provided us a good small car to take us around and included a Barong Kris dance based on the Ramayana with a long haired two-man tiger and a mischievous Hanuman. Huge and very colorful silk kites filled the skies everywhere in the constant breeze.

We drove through terraced paddy fields to Kintamani where there was a great view of a dormant volcano and lake Batur. We also visited several very interesting temples and workshops making the most delicate gold and silver jewelry. Needless to say we swam in the sea and spent a day doing water sports. The package included a short cruise around the harbor. At the end of the planned trip we spent three extra days at a lovely 5-star hotel at Sanaur on the east coast. This was a quieter beach on a extended lagoon behind a long coral reef that broke the great waves of the Pacific Ocean. Balinese food was very good but lacked the huge variety that Thailand offers.

We were also very fortunate to meet a lovely Balinese couple who showed us many aspects of Bali culture that a normal tourist would never see including an amazing cultural festival in which over a thousand amateur musicians and dancers enthusiastically participated. Bali is also the one foreign place that treats Indians as highly honored guests.